When to Use a Handsaw Instead of a Power Tool
In a power-tool world, one man puts his basic crosscut handsaw to work more often than you’d expect. Mark Clement, author of The Carpenter’s Notebook, explains five jobs for which it’s actually easier to use an old-fashioned handsaw instead of a circular, chain or reciprocating saw.
You’d think what with “carbide” this and “lithium” that, modern technology would sound the death knell for the humble handsaw. Not so fast. You’d be cutting yourself short if you ditched your Disston. Power tools still have their place, and one might assume they’d be the go-to tool for the six jobs below. But my experience has proven that these tasks can be more capably managed by hand. Even as the technology advances, I go back to handsaws more than ever before. By “handsaw,” unless otherwise noted, the tool I’m talking about is a hybrid tool. The saw in my toolbox, a Stiletto, cuts on the push stroke (like an western-style saw) as well as the pull stroke (like the Japanese style). Many “tool-box saws” have this configuration, which speeds up cuts while sticking with the traditional wood handle.
6 x 6 and Timbers
After running a power saw down all four faces of a 6 x 6 timber, there’s still a little stem left in the center where the blade doesn’t quite reach. 7-1/4-inch circular saws can’t through-cut them, and most people don’t have an 8-1/4-inch saw. A long blade in a reciprocating saw can get it, but it’s far easier to make a few easy with a nice, light hand to finish it off.
Rigid Foam
I use rigid foam insulation to upgrade attics and basements, to add pockets of insulation when framing and in various home repairs. It scores and breaks, sort of, with a utility knife, but a reciprocating saw is overkill. Giving a 2-inch thick foam slab the old push-pull with a handsaw delivers straight, easy cuts in the space age stuff. Old school meets new, and they mesh perfectly.
Rafters and Stairs
Cutting stair stringers or rafter bird’s mouths with a circular saw leaves an unwanted kerf mark where the round blade over-cuts the actual corner you’re cutting. For exposed stringers and rafters, like on deck stairs and porch rafters, I start the cut with a circular saw, stop short of the mark, and complete the cut with a hand saw. The kerf started by the circular saw guides the handsaw blade to finish off a clean corner.
Branches
There’s many a tree-branch no longer in my way due to my handsaw—no need for a chainsaw. However, cutting lots of green wood isn’t the bailiwick of most carpentry saws. The folding saws from Silky make short work of low-hangers or saplings, and they’re good toolbox carpentry saws, too. For full-on tree pruning, look for a pole saw with easy extension and good balance for leverage, like the Silky Longboy 360.
Door Jambs
I can’t say how many people I’ve seen struggle integrating new floors into existing door jambs (not that I’d possibly know from personal experience). While many a DIYer wrestles with complicated notching scenarios, the answer is much simpler: No, not renting a power undercut saw. Use a Japanese pull saw to undercut the jamb instead, creating a gap into which you slide the flooring for a seamless finish. The awkward cut is made easier because the pull-stroke saws require less effort and use a thinner blade.
By Mark Clement
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